OLDACT SEWING FACTORY
デラックスウエア社専用縫製工場
デラックスウエアは専用の自社縫製工場を有している。この工場は、「OLD(ヴィンテージ)、FACT(真実)、FACTORY(工場)」の言葉を融合し「OLDACT(オルダクト)」と命名された。
2010年このオルダクトは始動を開始した。創業当初は、新たに雇い入れた素人3名、装いも漆黒なヴィンテージミシン5台程の小規模なスタートだった。外注依頼をしていたジーンズ工場の廃業を受け、他社工場による同クオリティの製造に不安を払拭しきれなかった事が大きな引き金となり、小規模ながらクオリティを目指すジーンズ工場にしようと自社製造を始めたのだが、気持ちの勢いとは裏腹に、暫くして「大変なことに着手してしまった」と悩む日々が続いたことは言うまでも無い。
デラックスウエアは専用の自社縫製工場を有している。この工場は、「OLD(ヴィンテージ)、FACT(真実)、FACTORY(工場)」の言葉を融合し「OLDACT(オルダクト)」と命名された。
2010年このオルダクトは始動を開始した。創業当初は、新たに雇い入れた素人3名、装いも漆黒なヴィンテージミシン5台程の小規模なスタートだった。外注依頼をしていたジーンズ工場の廃業を受け、他社工場による同クオリティの製造に不安を払拭しきれなかった事が大きな引き金となり、小規模ながらクオリティを目指すジーンズ工場にしようと自社製造を始めたのだが、気持ちの勢いとは裏腹に、暫くして「大変なことに着手してしまった」と悩む日々が続いたことは言うまでも無い。
繰り返し行われるミシン演習では「目指すクオリティ」に到底遠く、「足りない」という現実を解消しようと増え続ける設備投資と増大する経費、当たり前に売上は頭打ちとなり資金繰りに心身をすり減らした絶句と絶望の連続となったことを鮮明に記憶している。
その中で、一つだけ希望があったとするならば「社員達のやり遂げる覚悟」だった。
「必ず」という決意めいた合言葉と時間が問題を一つ一つ解決に導き、近年それは総勢23名、ヴィンテージミシン40台と徹底的に品質追及する独自の製造管理システムを有し、製造2ラインによる製造種目はシャツ、パンツ、ジーンズ、アウター、カットソー、レザーなど多岐に渡る。そして現在、デラックスウエアが展開する商品の90％以上を製造するに至るまで成長を遂げた。
ゼロから創り上げたこの「オルダクト」は新しい時代を切り開くための心臓部となり「感動を創造する（値する）」商品を生み出す場所なのだ。
その中で、一つだけ希望があったとするならば「社員達のやり遂げる覚悟」だった。
「必ず」という決意めいた合言葉と時間が問題を一つ一つ解決に導き、近年それは総勢23名、ヴィンテージミシン40台と徹底的に品質追及する独自の製造管理システムを有し、製造2ラインによる製造種目はシャツ、パンツ、ジーンズ、アウター、カットソー、レザーなど多岐に渡る。そして現在、デラックスウエアが展開する商品の90％以上を製造するに至るまで成長を遂げた。
ゼロから創り上げたこの「オルダクト」は新しい時代を切り開くための心臓部となり「感動を創造する（値する）」商品を生み出す場所なのだ。
Deluxware has its own on-site sewing factory named "OLDACT".
We created the name by combining the words "old", "fact", and "factory", another way of saying it's a place where 'true vintage items' are created.
OLDACT was launched in 2010 from humble beginnings: three newly-employed amateurs and five jet-black vintage sewing machines. One of the driving forces behind this decision was that the jeans factory that had been doing our sewing for us up until then closed down, and we just couldn't seem to replicate that same level of quality at any other factory. Unable to shake the worry of having our jeans made somewhere with questionable quality, we decided to become a small-scale jeans factory and do it ourselves. While there was no shortage of enthusiasm and excitement about what we were doing, it wasn't long before I realized what a massive and difficult project we had actually taken on.
Again and again, we did our best on the sewing machines, but the level of quality was not still what we were aiming for, and I vividly remember that feeling of constant worry and despair as we tried to solve the problem of 'not good enough' by investing more and more money in equipment and facilities. Expenses soared, sales naturally plateaued, and the constant outflow of cash was draining on our minds, bodies, and souls. There was, however, hope in there somewhere amongst the despair, and that was the amazing determination of the employees to see this thing through and somehow make it work.
With a combination of our new motto of determination "We will definitely succeed", trial and error, and time, we were able to slowly resolve our issues, one by one. Now we have 23 employees, 40 vintage sewing machines, and a unique manufacturing management control system that constantly pursues the highest level of quality throughout our production lines that include shirts, jeans, pants, outerwear, cut and sewn items, and leathers. We are now at the point where 90% of our products are produced right in house. Created from the ground up, OLDACT is the heart that beats at the center of this new era, a place where quality products that create (and deserve) excitement are made .
We created the name by combining the words "old", "fact", and "factory", another way of saying it's a place where 'true vintage items' are created.
OLDACT was launched in 2010 from humble beginnings: three newly-employed amateurs and five jet-black vintage sewing machines. One of the driving forces behind this decision was that the jeans factory that had been doing our sewing for us up until then closed down, and we just couldn't seem to replicate that same level of quality at any other factory. Unable to shake the worry of having our jeans made somewhere with questionable quality, we decided to become a small-scale jeans factory and do it ourselves. While there was no shortage of enthusiasm and excitement about what we were doing, it wasn't long before I realized what a massive and difficult project we had actually taken on.
Again and again, we did our best on the sewing machines, but the level of quality was not still what we were aiming for, and I vividly remember that feeling of constant worry and despair as we tried to solve the problem of 'not good enough' by investing more and more money in equipment and facilities. Expenses soared, sales naturally plateaued, and the constant outflow of cash was draining on our minds, bodies, and souls. There was, however, hope in there somewhere amongst the despair, and that was the amazing determination of the employees to see this thing through and somehow make it work.
With a combination of our new motto of determination "We will definitely succeed", trial and error, and time, we were able to slowly resolve our issues, one by one. Now we have 23 employees, 40 vintage sewing machines, and a unique manufacturing management control system that constantly pursues the highest level of quality throughout our production lines that include shirts, jeans, pants, outerwear, cut and sewn items, and leathers. We are now at the point where 90% of our products are produced right in house. Created from the ground up, OLDACT is the heart that beats at the center of this new era, a place where quality products that create (and deserve) excitement are made .
VINTAGE SEWING MACHINE
なぜヴィンテージミシンなのか
「なぜヴィンテージミシンなのか？」と言う質問が最も多い興味だろう。率直に言うと「今も昔も変らない」。
知っての通りミシンとは縫製する設備だが、主な縫い方やステッチ構造に違いは無く19世紀も21世紀も変らないが言い換えれば3世紀間変らない。しかし周辺事項には大きな差があるとお伝えしよう。幅広い拡張性とカスタマイズドを可能にするため鉄と鋳物で創られ職人仕事を直接反映させる機械式(ヴィンテージ)と、樹脂やプラスチックを多用し大量生産向けに拡張性を限定した電子制御式(新型)の違いはそのまま効率性とステッチ表情に現れる。
古き時代は「技術は人であり人が広げる」ことでミシンに電子制御は皆無だが、対して現代ミシンは「電子制御により技術を保つ」汎用性が主となり創れるモノと技術の幅に違いが出る。
しかし何よりも、このヴィンテージミシンには時代の浪漫があるでしょ。
Why Vintage Sewing Machines?
This is probably the most common question we get: "Why bother using machines that are so old?" This might come as a surprise, but the reality is that not much has changed since the old days.
As you know, a sewing machine is a piece of equipment used for sewing, and the actual main sewing methods and stitches have had essentially the same structure from the 19th to the 21st century. There are however huge differences in accessories and what you can actually do with a vintage machine compared to a modern sewing machine. The difference with a vintage (mechanical) sewing machine is that it is made of steel and iron which allows for a wide range of expansion and customization. They were also built to last. The modern, electronically-controlled sewing machines of today are mostly made of plastic and resin, making it much harder to customize them for what we want to do.
In the old days, 'technology was the people and they mastered it and spread it themselves' while today, modern machines are controlled electronically, which is different kind of versatility. So instead of maintaining technology through people and operator skill, the new machines maintain it through electronic control which makes a difference in the range of products that can be created.
But let's be honest - vintage machines are also simply cool and have that air of romance from a bygone era.
「なぜヴィンテージミシンなのか？」と言う質問が最も多い興味だろう。率直に言うと「今も昔も変らない」。
知っての通りミシンとは縫製する設備だが、主な縫い方やステッチ構造に違いは無く19世紀も21世紀も変らないが言い換えれば3世紀間変らない。しかし周辺事項には大きな差があるとお伝えしよう。幅広い拡張性とカスタマイズドを可能にするため鉄と鋳物で創られ職人仕事を直接反映させる機械式(ヴィンテージ)と、樹脂やプラスチックを多用し大量生産向けに拡張性を限定した電子制御式(新型)の違いはそのまま効率性とステッチ表情に現れる。
古き時代は「技術は人であり人が広げる」ことでミシンに電子制御は皆無だが、対して現代ミシンは「電子制御により技術を保つ」汎用性が主となり創れるモノと技術の幅に違いが出る。
しかし何よりも、このヴィンテージミシンには時代の浪漫があるでしょ。
Why Vintage Sewing Machines?
This is probably the most common question we get: "Why bother using machines that are so old?" This might come as a surprise, but the reality is that not much has changed since the old days.
As you know, a sewing machine is a piece of equipment used for sewing, and the actual main sewing methods and stitches have had essentially the same structure from the 19th to the 21st century. There are however huge differences in accessories and what you can actually do with a vintage machine compared to a modern sewing machine. The difference with a vintage (mechanical) sewing machine is that it is made of steel and iron which allows for a wide range of expansion and customization. They were also built to last. The modern, electronically-controlled sewing machines of today are mostly made of plastic and resin, making it much harder to customize them for what we want to do.
In the old days, 'technology was the people and they mastered it and spread it themselves' while today, modern machines are controlled electronically, which is different kind of versatility. So instead of maintaining technology through people and operator skill, the new machines maintain it through electronic control which makes a difference in the range of products that can be created.
But let's be honest - vintage machines are also simply cool and have that air of romance from a bygone era.
SEWING PRODUCTS
正確なラフが表情を創る
服飾のモノ創りとは、方針をカタチにすることにある。
3㎝間におけるミシンの数(運針)、縫い上がり寸法、詰めたり引いたりして収める技、素材に対するミシン糸のテンションと使用する針の種類。
これをヴィンテージミシンを使用し創ると「正確なラフ」が生み出され、この小さな積み重ねが品質・表情となる。是非仕上りのステッチに注視して頂きたい。
服飾のモノ創りとは、方針をカタチにすることにある。
3㎝間におけるミシンの数(運針)、縫い上がり寸法、詰めたり引いたりして収める技、素材に対するミシン糸のテンションと使用する針の種類。
これをヴィンテージミシンを使用し創ると「正確なラフ」が生み出され、この小さな積み重ねが品質・表情となる。是非仕上りのステッチに注視して頂きたい。
An 'accurate roughness'.
Creating clothing is the process of giving physical shape to an concept. The number of sewing stitches in a 3cm space (needle count), the size of the stitches, the technique of pulling and releasing, the tension of the sewing thread on the material, and the type of needle to be used are all essential factors. The use of a vintage sewing machine produces a kind of 'exact roughness', and the accumulation of these small details gives the garment its quality and expression. We hope you will pay close attention to the stitches in the finished product and experience firsthand what we are referring to here.
Creating clothing is the process of giving physical shape to an concept. The number of sewing stitches in a 3cm space (needle count), the size of the stitches, the technique of pulling and releasing, the tension of the sewing thread on the material, and the type of needle to be used are all essential factors. The use of a vintage sewing machine produces a kind of 'exact roughness', and the accumulation of these small details gives the garment its quality and expression. We hope you will pay close attention to the stitches in the finished product and experience firsthand what we are referring to here.
DELICATE MADE
高い技術を要するカットソーライン
生地にハサミを入れただけでめくれ上がり引張るとあっと言う間に数値が変る柔らかい素材、ミシンが素材を傷付け縫製糸が素材の特性を損なわせるほど緻密な調整を必要とするためシャツやジーンズ等の布帛製品と対極にある技術がカットソーである。
素材の伸縮に合わせた針・縫製糸・運針の調整を必要とし、詰めず伸ばさずの手元技術が必須となる。まさかこんな素材に太い針と縫製糸を使おうものなら直ぐに穴だらけになるだろう。お気付きの通り、オルダクトにはこれを可能にするミシン設備と職人が揃う。
縫製部を引張り、突っ張りやシワの出方など動きと創りを確認しよう。
The cut-and-sew production line requires a very high level of skill and craftsmanship.
These fabrics are the opposite of woven fabrics such as shirting and jeans in that they require incredibly precise handling and movements and are easily damaged. The fabric curls up as you cut it, and without constant and precise adjustments, the needle and thread can completely ruin the fabric's structure and characteristics.
These items require the operator to adjust the combination of needles, threads and needle movement to match the elasticity of the particular fabric being sewn, and it essential to use experienced hands to not overstretch or allow the fabric to be too slack and to watch the constant expansion and contraction of the material. If you try to use a thick needle, this kind of material will be instantly full of holes. Rest assured that OLDACT has the sewing machines and skills to do this delicate work perfectly.
Don't be afraid to pull on the seams of your Deluxeware items to see how they move, contract, and expand.
生地にハサミを入れただけでめくれ上がり引張るとあっと言う間に数値が変る柔らかい素材、ミシンが素材を傷付け縫製糸が素材の特性を損なわせるほど緻密な調整を必要とするためシャツやジーンズ等の布帛製品と対極にある技術がカットソーである。
素材の伸縮に合わせた針・縫製糸・運針の調整を必要とし、詰めず伸ばさずの手元技術が必須となる。まさかこんな素材に太い針と縫製糸を使おうものなら直ぐに穴だらけになるだろう。お気付きの通り、オルダクトにはこれを可能にするミシン設備と職人が揃う。
縫製部を引張り、突っ張りやシワの出方など動きと創りを確認しよう。
The cut-and-sew production line requires a very high level of skill and craftsmanship.
These fabrics are the opposite of woven fabrics such as shirting and jeans in that they require incredibly precise handling and movements and are easily damaged. The fabric curls up as you cut it, and without constant and precise adjustments, the needle and thread can completely ruin the fabric's structure and characteristics.
These items require the operator to adjust the combination of needles, threads and needle movement to match the elasticity of the particular fabric being sewn, and it essential to use experienced hands to not overstretch or allow the fabric to be too slack and to watch the constant expansion and contraction of the material. If you try to use a thick needle, this kind of material will be instantly full of holes. Rest assured that OLDACT has the sewing machines and skills to do this delicate work perfectly.
Don't be afraid to pull on the seams of your Deluxeware items to see how they move, contract, and expand.
LEGIT QUALITY
魅せるクオリティ「リジットクオリティ」とは
デラックスウエアのクオリティとは
「証明出来ること」にある。
この素材はいつ誰がどこで製造したのか、この製品はどんな技術でカタチになったのか、そして各部位の寸法はどのような数値で仕上がったのか。
徹底した品質は感動を創造するディティールに変わり、この魅せる品質こそファッションであると言う理念を持つ。
我々の想いは「品質が生み出すファッション」と言う意志のもと、魅せるクオリティ「リジットクオリティ」を提唱する。
デラックスウエアのクオリティとは
「証明出来ること」にある。
この素材はいつ誰がどこで製造したのか、この製品はどんな技術でカタチになったのか、そして各部位の寸法はどのような数値で仕上がったのか。
徹底した品質は感動を創造するディティールに変わり、この魅せる品質こそファッションであると言う理念を持つ。
我々の想いは「品質が生み出すファッション」と言う意志のもと、魅せるクオリティ「リジットクオリティ」を提唱する。
What is "legit quality"?
At Deluxeware, this means being able to provide actual proof of quality, a record of each step in the process. Who made this material and where was it made? How was it produced and what are the exact dimensions of each part of this garment? What technology was used to make it and how was each part sewn?
We have the thinking here that overly-meticulous quality like this transforms into all the small but essential details that create emotion and unsurpassed quality. We truly believe that 'quality creates fashion' and that is why we settle for nothing less from ourselves than "legit quality".
At Deluxeware, this means being able to provide actual proof of quality, a record of each step in the process. Who made this material and where was it made? How was it produced and what are the exact dimensions of each part of this garment? What technology was used to make it and how was each part sewn?
We have the thinking here that overly-meticulous quality like this transforms into all the small but essential details that create emotion and unsurpassed quality. We truly believe that 'quality creates fashion' and that is why we settle for nothing less from ourselves than "legit quality".
